Kopi, Teh Tarik & Kopitiam Drink Culture

You point at the counter and call out “kopi-O peng, satu!” — and somehow the uncle behind that old espresso machine understands exactly what you want. The language of kopitiam orders looks like a secret code, but it is really a neat, logical system.

How do you read the code at the kopitiam counter?

The key: every order is one base drink + one or more modifiers. The base drink — “kopi” (coffee) or “teh” (tea) — already comes with sweetened condensed milk by default. Every other modifier is just an adjustment away from that setting.

Modifier	Meaning	Example
O	No milk (Hokkien: black)	kopi-O = black coffee with sugar
C	Evaporated milk + sugar	teh-C = tea with evaporated milk
kosong	No sugar (Malay: empty)	kopi-O kosong
gao / gau	Thick, stronger (Hokkien)	kopi gao
po / poh	Thin, milder (Hokkien)	kopi po
peng / ais	With ice	teh peng
siew dai	Less sweet	kopi siew dai

Stack these modifiers on top of one another, and you can build almost anything: “teh-C kosong peng” means tea with evaporated milk, no sugar, over ice.

Where do “O” and “C” come from?

The word kopitiam itself joins kopi (Malay) with tiam (Hokkien for shop). According to the Coffee & Tea Culture guide, “O” comes from the Hokkien word for black — which is why kopi-O has no milk.

The origin of “C” is more debated. One popular explanation links it to the evaporated milk brand Carnation. Another, supported by some Hainanese kopitiam operators, connects it to the Hainanese-dialect pronunciation of xian (鲜), meaning “fresh” — a reference to evaporated milk, which was once considered the freshest milk available. Whatever its origin, at the counter the meaning is clear: evaporated milk, not sweetened condensed milk.

Why is teh tarik “pulled”?

“Tarik” does mean to pull. Hot milk tea is poured repeatedly between two containers from a height — this very motion is what sets teh tarik apart from ordinary milk tea. The pour cools the drink, blends the tea with the milk, and produces a fine layer of froth on the surface. This skill of pouring theatrically has grown into a spectacle, so much so that teh tarik competitions exist in Malaysia, judging contestants on dexterity and style.

Teh tarik is closely synonymous with the mamak — the Indian-Muslim eatery that, according to local cultural coverage, mostly operates 24 hours and serves as a “third place” (not work, not home) for Malaysians to hang out. “Jom teh tarik” is rarely really about the tea; it is an invitation to chat, to talk things over, or simply to hang out in a multi-ethnic setting.

Is this drink culture recognised?

Yes. In 2024, at session 19.COM of UNESCO’s Intergovernmental Committee, “Breakfast culture in Malaysia: dining experience in a multi-ethnic society” was inscribed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. According to UNESCO, this element encompasses traditional dishes such as nasi lemak and roti canai as well as the drink teh tarik — and it highlights how dishes originally practised by one ethnic group came to be enjoyed by all, regardless of ethnic background.

What’s next

The best way to master this code is not to memorise it, but to try it. Start with one modifier at a time — order “kopi-O” tomorrow, then “kopi-C kosong” the day after. For broader context on Malaysia’s UNESCO-recognised food and cultural heritage, see our cultural heritage tourism guide.