Songket is a hand-woven Malay cloth whose pattern is produced by inserting gold or silver thread between the base threads of the cloth, using a kek — a two-pedal floor loom. It is expensive because the pattern cannot be produced by the loom mechanism itself: the weaver must lift selected warp threads by hand with a bamboo pick or a nibung-palm blade, row by row, across the entire length of the cloth. UNESCO records a piece of songket as the product of months of skilled hand-weaving. Songket was inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2021.
- Songket's pattern is formed by inserting gold or silver thread between the base threads, so it appears to float above the surface of the cloth
- The loom used is the kek, a two-pedal floor loom driven entirely by human effort
- A single piece of songket can take weeks to months to complete — that time is the main cost, not just the materials
- In Malaysia, songket is woven mainly in Kelantan, Terengganu, Pahang, Johor, Melaka and Sarawak
- Songket was listed by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage in 2021, and the UNESCO Committee also flagged the risk of over-commercialisation
Who this applies to: Anyone who wants to buy songket, tell it apart from printed gold-patterned cloth, or understand why the price can differ so much from one piece to another.
On this page
The sound most often heard in a songket workshop is not the sound of a machine. It is wood being pressed, thread being pulled, and a bamboo pick being slid in and drawn out — over and over, one row of pattern at a time, all day long.
That is the short answer to why a piece of songket costs what it does. The gold pattern on the cloth is not the work of a loom. It is the work of the weaver’s hands, row by row.
What is actually happening on the loom
Ordinary cloth is formed from two sets of thread: warp thread stretched lengthwise, and weft thread passed across it. Songket adds a third set — gold or silver thread inserted between the base threads purely to form the pattern, so that it appears to float above the coloured woven surface.
The loom is called a kek: a two-pedal floor loom, driven entirely by the weaver’s feet and hands. The two pedals can only open and close the warp threads for the base weave. For the pattern, the weaver must lift the selected warp threads by hand using a bamboo pick or a nibung-palm blade, and only then is the metallic thread inserted.
Every row of the motif means one more round of the same hand work. That is why UNESCO describes songket as a fine cloth produced by months of skilled hand-weaving, and a single piece can take weeks to months to finish.
What actually drives up the price
| Factor | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Pattern density | A fully patterned cloth needs far more rows of songket-work than one where the pattern appears only at the head of the cloth and along the border |
| Weaving time | Weeks to months per piece — human time, not machine time |
| Materials | Silk or cotton as the base cloth, with gold or silver thread as the pattern thread |
| Skill | Knowledge passed down within families and villages, and through institutional training programmes — not a skill that can be learned in a few weeks |
| Division of labour | Women weave; men take part in the practice by making the weaving equipment |
The Department of National Heritage describes songket as the “queen” of Malay woven cloth precisely because of the complexity of producing it and its use of gold thread. Historically, the gold thread itself was a marker of status: only rulers, royalty and state dignitaries were permitted to wear it.
Why Terengganu and Kelantan
Kraftangan Malaysia records that songket is believed to have originated on the East Coast, namely Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang. The Department of National Heritage, in turn, lists Malaysia’s songket weaving centres as Kelantan, Terengganu, Pahang, Johor, Melaka and Sarawak.
The east coast has remained the centre because the skill is passed down through generations within families and villages — the same structure that makes Kelantan and Terengganu centres of batik and Kelantan a centre of wayang kulit.
Its motifs take geometric forms as well as elements from nature such as flowers, birds and insects. The Department of National Heritage also records early influence from Indian traders, who brought gold thread, silver thread, silk and finished cloth into the region.
Common mistakes
- Assuming all gold-patterned cloth is songket. Songket is defined by its technique — metallic thread inserted during weaving — not by the appearance of a gold pattern. A gold pattern that is printed or embroidered is not songket.
- Comparing prices without looking at pattern density. Two pieces of cloth the same size can differ several times over in weaving time depending on how much of the surface is patterned.
- Assuming songket is exclusive to one country. The Department of National Heritage records that songket is also found in Indonesia, Thailand, the Philippines and Brunei.
- Assuming a UNESCO listing means the craft is safe. In the same decision, the UNESCO Committee reminded Malaysia to pay attention to the risk of over-commercialisation of this element.
What’s next
Songket was inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in December 2021, and today it is not merely ceremonial dress: the Department of National Heritage records that songket is now also used on curtains, table linen, handbags and craft items.
If you want to assess a piece of songket, start with a better question than “how much does it cost”: how much of this cloth’s surface is patterned, and how long did it take to weave. The official UNESCO listing record and the Department of National Heritage’s website are good starting points for verifying origin and technique before you buy.
What is the difference between songket and ordinary woven cloth?
Ordinary weaving forms cloth from just two sets of thread — warp and weft. Songket adds a third set: gold or silver thread inserted between the base threads purely to form the pattern. That extra thread does not hold the structure of the cloth together; it floats above the woven surface, and every row of the pattern has to be opened up by the weaver's hand.
How long does it take to weave a piece of songket?
UNESCO describes songket as a fine cloth that is the product of months of skilled hand-weaving, and a single piece can take weeks to months depending on how dense the pattern is. A cloth patterned all over takes far longer than one where the pattern appears only at the head of the cloth and along the border.
Why is songket expensive?
Because its main cost is human time. The kek is a two-pedal loom with no automatic mechanism for forming the pattern, so every row of the motif is opened up by the weaver with a bamboo pick or a nibung-palm blade before the metallic thread is inserted. Add to that years of training to master the skill, plus base materials such as silk and metallic thread.
Is songket only a Malaysian cloth?
No. The Department of National Heritage records that songket is also found in Indonesia, Thailand, the Philippines and Brunei. The 2021 UNESCO listing is for the songket named as Malaysia's, and does not deny the existence of songket traditions in other countries.
Who weaves songket?
Traditionally, women. UNESCO records that songket weaving has always been in the hands of women, while men take part in the practice by making the weaving equipment. The knowledge is passed down within families and villages, and some institutions also offer training programmes.
Sources
- Songket — Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity — UNESCO
- Decision of the Intergovernmental Committee: 16.COM 8.B.22 — Songket (Malaysia) — UNESCO
- Songket — Warisan Budaya Tidak Ketara — Jabatan Warisan Negara
- Songket — Info Kraf — Jabatan Warisan Negara
- Seni Kraf Tenunan: Motif & Teknik — Perbadanan Kemajuan Kraftangan Malaysia
Change history
| Version | Date | Change | By |
|---|---|---|---|
| 01.00 | 24 Jul 2026 | Approved and published. | — |